In most situations, installation of the Water Window is straight forward and requires only basic wiring and networking skills. Depending on your current tank configuration, and the equipment and network installed, the Water Window can be up and running in less than an hour.
Initial Site Survey
- Choose a location that is close to the tank so that the sensor wire will reach the meter while allowing the sensor to fully lay on the bottom of the tank. The wire is 5m long and should be routed so as to avoid causing any sort of hazard, (such as tripping), and also to be protected from any sort of damage.
- The path between the Water Window and the access point should as close together as possible and have as few obstructions in-between as possible, i.e. bushes, walls. hills etc.
- Using a smart phone or tablet download a Wi-Fi signal app such as "Wifi Analyzer" or "Wi-Fi Analytics" to review the Wi-Fi signal strength of your network at the installation location (See Pre-Installation Planning guide for more information). A signal strength of -40dbm to -70dbm indicates good signal and you should have no issues. -70dbm to -90dbm indicates lower signal strength and you may need to look at either changing the installation location of the Water Window, move the access point closer to the Water Window, or install a Wi-Fi repeater or another access point closer to the Water Window. (This step is for reference to help you choose the best location and to give you an idea if further network device placement or additions may be needed. Every device has a different antennas design and will report signal strength a little differently. The final determination will be when the Water Window is connected to your network at the install location. See the install guide on how to find the Water Window's signal strength.)
- Determine how to get power to the Water Window. Since the Water Window contains its own server to display the data to you and does not utilize any outside cloud services, it must always be on, waiting for a request from you. Because of this the unit must be plugged in.
- If your tank already has a low level alarm installed, the wires can be disconnected from the alarm and float and used to power the water window.
- If there is no wiring already in place, the wiring must be installed. Near a standard wall outlet, the included outdoor rated 12v power supply will need to be mounted. From there a wire pair will need to be run to the Water Window unit. How the wire is installed is up to you, but most commonly it is buried. We recommend using a pair of 12v low voltage, direct burial rated 18ga or larger wire. Low voltage yard lighting wire available from any hardware store is ideal.
- It is up to the user to verify and follow all local electrical regulations.
- Only 12v low voltage wiring used for this system is to be modified. For any questions or for modification of any other electrical system, consult a qualified electrician.
- Before working on any electrical system, disconnect all power and verify with a voltmeter that it is de-energized first.
1. New installation, no previous equipment has been installed. Customer has run a 12v low voltage wire from the house to the Water Window.
2. A low level alarm has previously been installed inside the house and the wiring goes into a junction box before entering the tank. The wiring for the alarm has been disconnected from the alarm and used for the Water Window.
3. Again a low level alarm has previously been installed but the wiring goes directly into the tank. The alarm wiring is brought up though a 1" hole drilled into the side of the tank vent in the lid. The wiring for the alarm has been disconnected from the alarm and the float removed entirely. The Water Window is mounted directly to the vent pipe. Sufficient slack is left in the wires so that the lid may be easily removed if needed.